Foundation

Irkutsk is not only the capital of Eastern Siberia but also the city- museum that could keep the romantic face of antiquity. Ornate and solemn Siberian baroque is side by side with austere Empire style near the tartish smartness of the merchant houses.

The name of the city originated from the river’s name Irkut, on whose bank the Siberian ostrog (wooden towns-fortress) was founded in 1661. Though there is no unified opinion regarding the foundation time of Irkutsk. Some scientists refer this event to the beginning, the others – to the middle of the 17th century. There are testaments reported that in 1652 the Cossack detachment headed by Ivan Pohabov chose this place for spending the winter. It was at the junction of the rivers Angara and Irkut. They didn’t stay there for a long time and moved eastwards over the lake Baikal to impose tax upon the tribes that hadn’t yet paid it.

In nine years, in 1661, the other Pohabov – Yakov, decided to found a burg on the right bank of the Angara and called it the Irkutsk ostrog. The place of foundation was very lucky: the soil was fertile, the waters were full of fish and the forests around were rich in game. Moreover, Irkutsk was at the crossing of two trade roads between the West and the East. Gradually, it began to play more and more important role in Siberia. In 1670 the first courier with valuable papers went through Irkutsk from Moscow to China. Further, the first ambassador – Nikolay Spafariy, set off to China in 1675. There kept papers dated from 1684 that gave a detailed description of Irkutsk. It is written that there were six towers with several storeys, the church of Our Lord Jesus Christ, the Tsar’s Storehouse where were living the Irkutsk voivodes, many storehouses, magazines, bath-house, houses for single Cossacks, and something like a hotel for guesting merchants.  The towers had loop-halls and cannons and there was a powder-magazine under one tower where ammunition and arms were kept.  Such was the Irkutsk ostrog in the 17th century.

In 1686 Irkutsk obtained a status of town, own seal and its own emblem as well. Gradually, the news about a new-born town with a good location spread all over Siberia and the European part of Russia. Irkutsk had become a center of the agricultural region. A lot of people started to arrive in the town from all parts of the country. 600 peasants with their families were sent here by the government in 1697. They were granted plots of land and meadows. The government helped them to start agricultural works by giving them plough, horses, cart, cattle and flocks. The only economy basis was bread that provided to the Cossacks and manufacturers that were moving farther eastwards in order to discover new lands. For keeping tabs on bread supply and security in Irkutsk, the staff was extended there: voivodes, scribes, sotniks (officer rank of Cossacks), foremen and others. A special office desk for keeping tab on bread storage, its acceptance, delivery and selling was organized there. At the beginning of the reign of Peter 1 after the uprising against the Tsar’s power, a great number of soldiers were exiled to Irkutsk. As a result, there were 3447 inhabitants at the beginning of the 18th century. That time Irkutsk turned into a serious Siberian city.

Irkutsk in the 18th century

In the 60s of the 18th century Irkutsk obtained the famous road, later called the Moscow Highway. Since 1768 the annual fairs were held in the city. It stimulated the merchants to build many factories, new mills, brewing factories as well as Gostiny Dvor (rows of shops) that comprised a big number of shops. It was built according to the project of the famous Italian architect – Giacomo Quarenghi. Unfortunately, the time didn’t preserve this building. But there is one more work of art designed by him – the so-called White House that was built by the rich merchant Sibiryakov on the river bank. Later it became the residence of the Irkutsk General-Governor. Nowadays, there is the biggest book depository in Russia – the University’s scientific library. The unique collection of the educational books dated from the pre-revolutionary times, books from the personal library of the Decembrists as well as many other periodical publications of the 19th century is kept there now.

Commercial and industrial development

After having become a big city, Irkutsk started its commercial and industrial development. Local carpenters were making pitch and constructing little flat-bottomed boats called in Russia - doschaniki. The number of mills increased rapidly. The travelers visiting Irkutsk marked a certain number of professional cabinetmakers were working there whose furniture had got a big fame in St. Petersburg and even abroad. Rare species of the Siberian taiga trees were used as a material for its making. Icons were painted, silver frameworks were made there as well as rich carriages and droshky adapted to the Siberian roads. There had been found a little brick plant for stone buildings construction. Irkutsk was like a “warehouse” of the country where the goods from neighboring countries were kept. For instance, peltry was imported from the North, tea, raw silk, porcelain, cloths and other Mongolian and Chinese goods - from the South.   

In short time Irkutsk had become a trade center of Russia with quite a considerable source of income for the state funds. Moreover, Irkutsk produced glass dishes made of more transparent, pure and cheaper glass. The new method of glass production was discovered by Eric Laksman that was a naturalist, mineralogist and botanist. He came to live in Irkutsk in the 18th century and could find there a natural substitution of potash that is essential for the glass manufacturing. After that Laksman inaugurated a glass-factory in Irkutsk. Later his technology spread worldwide.    

Development of diplomatic relations  

Thus, Irkutsk had become an important commercial, administrative and diplomatic center. Frequently many diplomatic meetings, negotiations concerning international relations as well as borders questions were held there. The city aspect changed a lot. The Spasskaya and Krestovozdvizhenskaya Churches had been erected. They are the oldest stone buildings in Eastern Siberia. There was built up a big Triumphal Arch in Irkutsk as well.  

Like all the old cities Irkutsk experienced a lot of devastating fires. That is why there are very few buildings preserved from the foundation times. The first serious fire burnt out a great number of wooden houses and the Spasskaya Church as well. Later it was replaced by a stone one that has been kept till our time, and is now a reminiscence of the Irkutsk ostrog and, moreover, the oldest building of Irkutsk. The most terrible fire happened in 1979 destroyed 105 stone buildings and 3148 wooden ones. Almost the whole central part of the city along with 75 city blocks had been burnt out on that fire. Only in 10 years the destroyed streets were reconstructed. Moreover, being situated in the seismic zone, Irkutsk has been suffered from numerous earthquakes that continue occurring nowadays.

Period of scientific expeditions

A lot of scientific expeditions were sent to Irkutsk in the 18th century with the aim to investigate the lake Baikal, the Siberian region and the East in general. Irkutsk was destined to “open a window to the East” and pave the way for Russia to the Pacific Ocean. All the expeditions organized by the government to the Far East, Yakutia, Mongolia, China and Alaska were formed namely in Irkutsk. From this very town a colonization of the Amur’s area started. Also there was based an office of the world-famous Russian-American Company that successfully carried on trade and expansion of a new territory from Alaska to Japan. The first embassies to Beijing as well as caravan trade roads to Mongolia and China were passing across Irkutsk. A wholesale trade in Eastern Siberia was mainly concentrated in the Irkutsk merchants’ hands.  

The 19th century

In the first middle of the 19th century Irkutsk was in the lead among the all Siberian cities and was considered to be the main administrative and cultural center of the vast territory from the Enisey to the Pacific Ocean. The first and the second expeditions of Vitus Bering were formed there. Names of the expeditions’ members remained on the maps of the North and the East. A base for the foodstuffs and outfit supply of his expeditions had been formed in Irkutsk. There also ships were being constructed and clothed for the sea part of their expeditions. All of those events enhanced the prestige of Irkutsk.

That times city streets were being constructed disorderly, without abidance by strict lines and borders. After having got a piece of land, Irkutsk inhabitants built up a house where it seemed to be better for them. Owing to that by the beginning of the 19th century a part of the central streets had a zigzag aspect. In 1806 a new governor Nikolay Treskin engaged in city arrangement. Firstly, he organized numerous raids on forest footpads who constantly robbed merchant carts. Then, all the boggy and bumpy streets were made dry and plain, and the first sidewalks appeared in the city as well as many other improvements. A red line had been traced in each street. Each house owner got an order to rebuild his house along that line within a year. But city inhabitants took it frivolously. They didn’t know yet a genuine character of a new governor. In a year all the buildings that were out of the line and impeded the street to be direct had been destroyed without any mercy. In such a way all the streets became regular and Irkutsk assumed a proper aspect.

Land of exile

Eastern Siberia was considered the main place of political exile that time. There was one exiled per two aboriginal Siberians in the 19th century. A great number of exiled criminals lived namely in Irkutsk: the Decembrists, Petrashevtsy (members of the revolutionary organization headed by Petrashevskiy), Polish rebels, members of the revolutionary party “Narodnaya Volya” and many others.

Staying of the Decembrists – the greatest Russian intellectuals, the most educated persons in Russia, influenced a lot on the region’s destiny. Each of them left a bright imprint in the history of the region as well as in the memory of local inhabitants. The Decembrists enlightened the masses, opened schools not only for boys but also for girls having left behind the European part of Russia. Their activity exercised a good influence over the economic, science, agriculture, medicine, culture and many other aspects of the Irkutsk province’s life. Favourable for Irkutsk was the fact when the families of two Decembrists - Sergey Volkonskiy and Sergey Trubetskoy, were allowed to move to Irkutsk from the villages. Numerous home spectacles, family performances and concerts with musicians and singers arriving from St. Petersburg, Italia, France as well as from many other countries and cities were held for the local inhabitants. Each citizen took pride in being a guest of them. Such meetings with highly educated and well-bred people were a good school for getting knowledge, morality, intelligence and manners for the local youth. The Volkonskys’s and the Trubetskoy’s houses were considered to be a heart of Irkutsk and its cultural center.

Gold rush times

In the 40s of the 19th century Irkutsk became the center of the gold-mining industry and the capital of Lensk city’s gold. All the assets of gold industrialists, merchants and foreign companies were flocking to Irkutsk. The Irkutsk merchants opened up a lot of gold mine fields and increased considerably their stocks. They became the richest ones in Siberia and began to play a remarkable role in the city development. The building and construction activity started in Irkutsk that time. Many hospitals, merchant mansions, educational institutions and orphanages were built up. There invested heavily in science and enlightenment.

In the second middle of the 19th century the printing started developing in Irkutsk.  The first newspapers were published: “The Irkutsk Province Vedomosti”, “Amur” and “Siberia”.

The first institution of science in Eastern Siberia - the Siberian office of the Russian Geographical Society opened in 1851. At different time there were working at the investigation of the lake Baikal and the Lena many outstanding scientists like V. Dybovskiy, A. Chekanovskiy, I. Cherskiy and V. Obruchev.

The Trans-Siberian Railroad

In 1898 during the reign of Alexander ııı the Trans-Siberian railroad had been run through Irkutsk. By the duration of its construction, mileage and difficulties occurred during the building process this railway ranked second to none. There was a hot discussion on what part of the city to lay the road and where to locate the railway station. It was decided to build it on the left bank of the Angara. The first train arrived in Irkutsk on the 16th of August in 1898. It was a great and delighted event in the life of all the inhabitants of Irkutsk. The pontoon bridge through the Angara linked the railway station with the right bank of the city. It took for nine days to get to Moscow that was faster than getting on horses.  

The construction of the Circumbaikal road lasted till 1905. It was the most difficult section of the rail line. The 39 tunnels had been driven through the mountains. Numerous viaducts, bridges and other constructions serve now as a memorial of the builders’ heroic work.  

Generally, the railway road stimulated more intensive industrial development of Irkutsk. As a great amount of coal required, its exploitation started extensively in the Cheremhovskiy region nearby Irkutsk. For rail-tracks and cross-sleepers wood and metal were in demand. Owing to that import of the manufactured goods and machinery increased. A lot of repair shops appeared at the railroad hauls.

In 1908 the monument to Alexander ııı was erected on the Angara’s bank where the main street of Irkutsk ended. 

Irkutsk in the 20 century

At the beginning of the 20th century Irkutsk was the most beautiful city in Siberia. There were more than 300 stone buildings. The streets were wide, clean and illuminated. That period the city center changed a lot: many massive buildings were erected, the roads were paved with stones as well as the first sidewalks covered with asphalt appeared there. The urban water-supply began its function and the first electric power stations opened in Irkutsk.   

Education   

Irkutsk was famed for a great number of educational institutions of different levels. The first higher educational establishment of Eastern Siberia was Irkutsk State University based in 1918. Some of its faculties had developed into the independent institutes: medical, pedagogical and others.

One enterprising Greek brought from Paris to Irkutsk the first movies of Lumiere. Thus the inhabitants of Irkutsk got to know cinema almost simultaneously with the residents of Russia’s capital.    

Civil War     

Civil War enveloped all Siberia in the end of May in 1918. That time Irkutsk temporary became a residence of Russian Supreme governor – admiral Alexander Kolchak. From the 28th of December the continuous military operations started in the city. All the streets were covered with human bodies. Among the killed were war fanatics, young boys who believed in correctness of all happening as well as simple people who didn’t see any sense in that war. January, 5 in 1920 the troops of Bolsheviks entered Irkutsk. Admiral Kolchak was arrested and executed. His body was thrown down into the mouth of the river Ushakovka where is a big wooden cross now. On the place of the shooting, nearby Znamenskiy monastery, the first monument in Russia to Alexander Kolchak had been erected in 2004. The event timed to the 130th anniversary from the admiral’s birthday.

Social and political situation in the 30s

From the 30s the industrial development began in Irkutsk. The heavy engineering plant, aircraft works, brick field, slag-concrete plant, tea pressing factory as well as food industry enterprises were built up. Social and political situation was complicated. A massive collectivization of agriculture began in 1929. People had to give the lands that they had hardly cultivated to the agricultural kolkhozs (co-operative association of workmen). The situation continued complicating owing to an active fight against all the religious organizations. The worship buildings had been destroyed all over the country. That time one of the biggest orthodox cathedral church in Russia had been demolished in Irkutsk. It was a Kazanskiy cathedral that had been built up in 1894. It was replaced by the municipal administrative establishment. The cathedral had been constructed on the means of all the provincial worshipers. The Irkutsk merchants invested more than all. The well-known architects of Irkutsk V. Kudelnikov and G. Rosen worked out its project. The Kazanskiy cathedral of Irkutsk was considered to be one of the largest cult constructions in Russia. Moreover, it was the most beautiful architectural building in the city.   

The Great Patriotic War

July 22, 1941 Hitler declared war on USSR. In such a state of emergency the Soviet Union became a single military camp. Irkutsk, in spite of its location within thousands of kilometers from the fighting line, had contributed heavily to the strengthening of defence. About 200 000 of Irkutsk’s inhabitants participated in the war. All the workers of the Irkutsk aircraft plant selflessly were working at the military aircrafts construction. An intensive training of workers developed in the plant’s industrial school. The meat packing plant of Irkutsk provided the army with food concentrates. The Irkutsk coronel A. Beloborodov commanded the 78 rifle division that joined the 16 army of K.Rokossovskiy, and redeemed Istra city along with other settlements after having defeated numerous enemy attacks. For the combat heroism and bravery A. Beloborodov had been promoted to the rank of general. There is a monument to the general in the square of the Eternal light in Irkutsk.                  

Post-war period

After the Great Patriotic War ending Irkutsk started developing intensively. It obtained a modern industrial city aspect. All the streets were covered with asphalt. The first tram routes began to function in 1947 and the trolleybus ones in 1972. Television broadcasting center was opened in 1958. The period of the active building and construction began in the city. A lot of new districts appeared in different parts of Irkutsk. The first big hydro-electric power station of Eastern Siberia was built up in 1958. Such a gravel-sand dam along with the reinforced concrete building on it had been planned for the first time in Russia. The hydro-electric power station was being constructed in the seismic zone and any possible destructive earthquake could make gravel and sand move and consolidate. Such rock-fill dams hadn’t been ever erected in the whole world before. The Irkutsk reservoir had been filled in, the water level in the Angara raised by 30 meters. As for the Baikal’s level, it raised at average by 1 meter.

Present development           

Nowadays Irkutsk keeps on changing. New roads, heating mains, social and cultural establishments as well as new housing estates are being constructed. All the old buildings, cultural and historic monuments are being restored as well. The population of the city is about 576 thousand people. This figure has decreased a lot compared to 2002 when it ran to 593 400 inhabitants.  

Education

Irkutsk is a city of students. A great number of the university entrants arrive in Irkutsk from all parts of the Irkutsk region and other provinces as well. There function more then 40 establishments of higher education in Irkutsk. A certain number of doctors of Philosophy and Candidates of science are training student in 150 trends and 260 specialities. The Irkutsk scientific complex is considered to be one of the biggest in the east of Russian Federation. An intellectual potential of Irkutsk converts it in attractive place for investments owing to a big number of qualified specialists both in all branches of industry and various spheres of the city infrastructure. In 2006 the city administration started elaborating a plan on the mergering Irkutsk, Shelikhov, Angarsk and other neighbouring settlements into a single municipal unit named “Big Irkutsk”. The Federal center is planning to involve “Big Irkutsk” in a program, being elaborated by Department of Economic development and Department of Regional development, on formation of 14 millionaire-cities in the territory of Russia.

Economy and industry

Irkutsk is an important economical center of Eastern Siberia. There are 70 industrial enterprises. A big hydro-electric power station is on the Angara. Machine industry is represented by the plants of heavy engineering, machine-tool and others. Irkutsk produces electric drills for the gold-mining and diamond industry, domain machinery, cardan axles and lathes. The mica plant fabricates details for the radio-electronic industry. The production of the building materials and products made of reinforced concrete is being carried on actively. Food industry is also highly developed. There work tea and macaroni factories as well as mill and feed-stuff plants.     

The International Irkutsk airport is considered to be one of the biggest in the east of Russia. However, it is also one of the most dangerous airports in the country. The urban buildings are situated at a short distance from the landing place. The Irkutsk airport carries out a lot of direct flights to the cities of Russia and of Asia as well. It is planned to build a new airport by 2010-2012 that will be located at a safe distance from the city.

Nowadays, Irkutsk enters a list of leader-cities for a big number of foreign tourists visiting it. In 2006 the Irkutsk region won the right to create a special economic zone of a touristic type named “Baikal”. It will be a resort of a world standard with a highly developed infrastructure. It is expected to be a large-scale tourist center in the eastern part of Russia.

Natural, energy and commercial resources along with the possibility to purchase municipal property in Irkutsk as well as long-term land rent have created favorable conditions for investing. Cultural, historic and scientific traditions historically established in Irkutsk and its liveliness make the city attractive and important place on the map of Russia as well as a significant point that links together a vast territory around the Angara. 

Local authority

At the present moment a major of Irkutsk is Vladimir Yakuboskiy. October 9, 2005 he was elected for the third term by the public voting. However, the state government is thinking over to change the system of major assignment. It is planned that the municipal Duma will appoint the majors of big cities according to the governor’s recommendation.

As for the governor, not so long ago a candidate for this post has been assigned by Legislative Assembly in conformity with the president’s recommendation. In spring, 2008 the Irkutsk governor Alexander Tishanin asked out. Now Igor Esipovskiy temporarily is acting for him.